Paper
Of course, paper is an important part of construction. Unless I specify otherwise, my designs use 8.5"x11" (A/letter) paper. I generally use basic printer paper for prototypes. For nicer models, I recommend at least 20-pound bond paper. While card stock is nice and rigid, it becomes very hard to fold as the steps progress, and adds extra weight, which reduces flight time. I also don't recommend construction paper--it's large-fiber format and low-bond quality lead to lower-quality folds, and weaker structure.
Cutting
When it comes to cutting, I prefer the control of scissors over other types of implements. You can use other tools, such as razor knives, sheet cutters, and matte cutters. Just make sure they're sharp, and cut clean lines (keeping them straight is up to you). In the end, all that maters is you're producing parts with clean edges, and that match the measurements of the model.
Measurements
Speaking of measurements, there are a lot of them. My measurements are done in inches and fractions (I'm considering switching to metric, but that's a while down the road). I recommend a 12" steel/metal rule. Although a full diagonal of a sheet of A4 paper is almost 14", I rarely use the full length of my rule. I also recommend getting one that is graduated at 1/16", because--due to folding--I rarely create measurements smaller than that.
Marking
You can use your marking implement of choice, but do keep a few factors in mind.
- The higher the precision, the easier it will be to accurately cut/fold/align the model parts. Markers like felt-tipped pens tend to bleed into the paper, making it difficult to know exactly where the mark was supposed to lie.
- If you want to decorate your model, you may want to select an erasable marking tool for the measurement steps. Markers and gel pens bleed and smear, dirtying surfaces you may want clean.
- The ability to run along the rule is a must. You can adjust the alignment of the rule to compensate for marker tip width, but it's easier to use a marking tool that will butt against the rule in the first place.
Adhesives
Stay away from liquid glue, paste, and tape. Liquid glue soaks into paper, and causes warping, which can ruin airfoils and control surfaces. Paste is lumpy and inconsistent, which can lead to separation and--as with liquid glue--warping of surfaces. Tape is heavy, which makes it good for adding ballast and adjusting balance, but it can also weight down your plane and add surfaces that can attribute to extra drag.
I recommend using glue sticks. They apply evenly, and you still have control over where the glue ends up. They're also not as lumpy as paste, and don't warp surfaces as badly as liquid glue. Just ensure you get one that will bond well--you don't want your plane falling apart in mid-air!
Other Specialized Tools
Sometimes I will use a tool that isn't listed here. Usually they are used to add detail to the model, or to perform a special function that my other tools can't handle. These can include:
- A compass (though I generally stay away from these due to the hole they create)
- Coins/lids/other round, traceable objects
- A straightedge
- A square (T-square, etc.)
1 comment:
Tape is hefty, which creates it excellent for including ballast and modifying stability, but it can also bodyweight down your aircraft and add areas that can feature to additional move.
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